Failures

These are all the plants I’ve given up on, for reasons of taste, productiveness or invasiveness or simply because they haven’t coped with the Aberdeen climate. Some of them I haven’t grown myself but have observed in other gardens that they don’t produce food at this latitude. The list doesn’t include the many plants that I’ve failed to even get to germinate.

Main post: A History of Failure.

Actinidia chinensis – smooth kiwi
Didn’t fruit, even in a greenhouse.

Actinidia kolomikta – Manchurian gooseberry
Didn’t fruit, even in a greenhouse.

Agastache foeniculum – anise hyssop
Not hardy in cold, wet winters (but does self seed, so it pops up randomly around the place every now and again).

Angelica archangelica – angelica
Grew massive and mugged my raspberries. It takes far too much room for what is essentially a herb, one that I don’t find very nice anyway. This was traditionally grown for candied stems, but from the descriptions I’ve read of the process it sounds like far more work than it is worth.

Angelica sylvestris – wild angelica, wood angelica
Wild angelica is an attractive native woodland plant, but in my opinion it isn’t productive enough for the forest garden. The leaves can be used sparingly as a herb but it takes up too much space to make this worth it. I have tried frying the young leaves as with its relatives sweet cicely and (native) hogweed, but found them too bitter.

Aquilegia vulgaris – columbine
Columbine grows well in the forest garden and if you find you like the taste then it would be well worth growing. Martin Crawford describes the young leaves as excellent and the flowers as great in salads. However all parts of columbine except the flowers are usually described as poisonous and the young leaves certainly taste that way to me. The flowers are okay but not enough of a crop to be worth bothering with.

Argentina anserina – silverweed, was Potentilla anserina
Small, fiddly roots which are difficult to harvest. The plant is an aggressive spreader. It does taste very nice though.

Asarum canadense – snake root, wild ginger
This never thrived and died out from two separate introductions. It is used as a ginger substitute (not that it tastes much like ginger) but there have now been health concerns raised about it.

Atriplex halimus – sea orache, saltbush
I love the salty-tasting leaves of this plant and so have tried introducing it several times. Unfortunately it always dies out during cold winters.

Campanula rapunculus – rampion
This is reported as having fleshy roots with a sweet taste reminiscent of chestnuts. I have only ever managed to get plants with very fine roots, which seems to be the general experience that other people who have actually grown it have had too.

Cochlearia officinalis – scurvy grass
Possibly the most revolting plant I have ever tasted. I would rather have scurvy.

Cornus canadensis – creeping dogwood
Both times that I have managed to get plants of this they have died over winter. It grows well in the Edinburgh Botanic Garden though, so I would be interested in giving it another try.

Dioscorea batatas – Chinese yam
Not hardy.

Eleagnus x ebbingei – elaeagnus
This is an excellent plant whose fruits I have enjoyed eating in a park in London. However in Aberdeen I have never seen it flower or fruit, despite its being widely used as a municipal shrub. The foliage tends to be damaged in harsh winters.

Gaultheria procumbens – wintergreen
Wintergreen has died out twice during cold winters. The berries have a very odd taste (like TCP, if anyone remembers that), so I’m not too sure why I grew it the second time anyway.

Geum urbanum – wood avens, herb bennet, cloveroot
A native wild plant whose root, dried and powdered, tastes like cloves. However, real cloves are so convenient that this really isn’t a priority for me. Wood avens is a little invasive and generally takes too much space and work for what it gives.

Helianthus tuberosus – Jerusalem artichoke, sunchoke
JA grows like mad and produces buckets of edible roots. Unfortunately, along with most of the daisy family, the roots contain inulin, a sugar that the human gut can’t break down, leading to terrible flatulence. I love my forest garden plants, but this is taking things too far.

Levisticum officinale – lovage
A very useful herb but the plant grows far too big for the amount needed. I use Scots lovage instead.

Lonicera caerulea edulis – edible honeysuckle, honeyberry
This shrub thrives but never produces any fruit: others in the area have found the same. This may well be due to lack of a pollinator as it is not self fertile: I have two plants but they are from the same supplier and may be too closely related.

Lotus tetragobolonus – asparagus pea
Has a horribly stringy, scratchy texture, even when young – and the taste isn’t that good either.

Mespilus germanicus – medlar
Even in warmer parts of Britain, this fruit has to be bletted, or left on the tree until after the frosts, to make it soft enough to be palatable. Here, even this doesn’t do the trick. Fruits are produced, but they never get beyond being rock-solid and tasteless.

Plantago coronopus – buck’s horn plantain, misticanza
Doesn’t maintain itself in the garden, unlike some other plantains I could mention.

Prunus spinosa – blackthorn, sloe
Yield too low to be worth it; spreads by suckers so can be invasive. Better foraged.

Pyrus communis – pear
I have never seen pears succeed in the north of Scotland.

Reichardia picroides – French scorzonera
I’ve tried this a few times from seed. It grows well but doesn’t successfully maintain itself by seeding – it’s not very productive either.

Rosa rugosa – ramanas rose
This is a useful shrub if you’re into rosehip teas, which I’m not. Even if you are, it’s so widely planted as a municipal shrub that it probably isn’t worth taking up space in your garden.

Rubus fruticosus agg – bramble, blackberry
Too spready for the forest garden, plus cultivated brambles never seem as nice as wild ones. Better foraged.

Rubus nepalensis – Nepalese raspberry
See ‘Four forest gardening myths’ for my general opinion on aggressive ‘ground cover’ plants like this.

Rubus parviflorus – thimbleberry
Grows and flowers well but no fruit. I only have one plant (genetically speaking), so perhaps it’s pining for a pollination partner? Update – this year (2013), after an unusually warm summer, I did get a little fruit from the thimbleberry. It was delicious but most flowers still failed to develop into fruits. (2014) Another warm summer and more fruit. I’ll be interested to see what happens in a cold summer – whether the plant just needed a long time to get established or whether it only fruits in warm summers here.

Rubus spectabilis – salmonberry
I have never planted this, but have spent a lot of time cutting it down. Locally it is a very invasive plant which seems to particularly like taking over moist stream margins. The fruit is very popular with the birds which help to spread it around, but to my taste it is insipid. They are also smallish and not produced in great numbers compared to the very large size of the bush. It is often advertised in permaculture and unusual fruit catalogues but I would steer well clear.

Tilia platyphyllos – large-leaved lime
Leaves too hairy. I prefer small-leaved lime or some hybrid limes (which vary greatly in their hairiness).

Tropaeolum majus – nasturtium, Tom Thumb
I like the pickled seeds but in the main nasturtium is just too peppery for my taste. It also requires re-seeding every few years, although this isn’t too difficult.

Tropaeolum tuberosum – mashua
Mashua is an Andean tuber. It gave a poor yield and tasted horrible. It produced a few seeds but they weren’t viable. I wasn’t sad to see it go.

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24 thoughts on “Failures

  1. My mashua yielded 2 kilos of tubers from one plant this year. It’s productive, but tasty? Not in any way I’ve ever discovered. Ocas do well. I’m hoping we can breed some better varieties more suited to long day summers.

  2. I find I can grow watercress in one of my polytunnel beds without running water. It makes a good all year salad veg.
    I did get some fruit from my Lonicera this year, apparently you need two varieties for good pollination.
    Interesting to read of your other rejects.

  3. Hi Marlyn
    Interesting to hear about your Lonicera. I have 2 plants, but they were from the same supplier and are possibly clones I suppose. Someone else on the allotments is planning to get one (They’ve been rebranded as ‘honeyberries’ apparently 🙂 ) so maybe I’ll start getting fruit once theirs flowers. One thing I’m definitely learning about the ‘rejects’ is never to give up completely on any of them; quite a number have come off the list over the years as I have learned something new about them or found a different variety.

    • Don’t any of your suppliers give cultivar names? If you just have two cultivars, they can pollinate. Some are earlier and some later though, so make sure they bloom at the same time so they actually pollinate each other. Here is a page that gives some cultivars and they’re blooming partners. http://www.burntridgenursery.com/fruitingPlants/index_product.asp?dept=38&parent=28
      I have ‘Berry Blue’ as a pollinator for five ‘Tundra,’ since one plant can pollinate eight others, or so I’m told. ‘Borealis’ is a good match for ‘Berry Blue’ also. These are Japanese cultivars, which I read bloom a bit later than the russian, keeping frosts from recking the flowers.

      • I got them back before edible honeysuckle had been reinvented as honeyberry and become widely available, so there were no cultivars available at the time. The question is whether that means they were all genetic individuals or whether they were just all the same clone! Nowadays most suppliers will have several different cultivars: I just ordered Balalaika and Blue Velvet from Martin Crawford at ART.

        • I have heard of Blue Velvet, but not Balalaika. I look forward to hearing how it performs!
          That’s tough not knowing if your plants are clones or not. It’s a wonderful thing to have so many plants we can pick from today, named, categorized, and tried. Thanks for adding your own experiences!

        • I’ve just eaten my first honeyberries from a bush planted last year. Only 2 this year but very tasty. I have 2 varieties bought from Scotplants direct at glenrothes as I understand this is needed to get fruit. we’re in the Highlands at 1000ft but last winter was not very cold for very long so I can’t say if they will survive a severe winter.

      • Actually, Tundra and Borealis which are from the University of Saskatchewan are are Russian/Kuril Island hybrids. Dr. Bob Bors, who heads the USask breeding programme, indicates that he is now working with Japanese genetic material from Hokkaidō in Northern Japan and crossing it with Russian and Kuril germplasm.

        Honeyberry varieties such as Berry Blue, Blue, Belle, Cinderella, Svetlana, Polaris, etc. are all Russian varieties. Most were bred at the N.I. Vavilov Institute of Plant Industry in St. Petersburg but were renamed when they were introduced into the United States in the mid-90’s.

        Here’s a list of renamed Russian, Ukrainian and Czech cultivars – http://goo.gl/kwFiS4

        • I know the varieties I mentioned are later blooming, which is supposed to be a characteristic of the Japanese cultivars. Hybridization can make for some confusion though, so you are probable right that they have some Russian in them.

    • I have two varieties of Lonicera and, though the plants grow very well up here on the Black Isle, fruiting has been erratic, and ripeness very hard to judge – picked too early they taste like concentrated tonic water. Horrible.

      However, I shall persevere for two reasons. Firstly, the plants can reputedly survive -50 degrees, so if wd eved get a lkng cold winter again tgeh will be fine. Secondly, they flower very early and provide much needed early season feeding for emerging queen bumblebees.

  4. I recommend giving the Chinese Artichokes another try. If you grow them in pots, and just dump the pots out, they are way easy to harvest. Harvested as soon as they’re ready, they don’t even need washing, just a brief rinse. And I do think they get the award for world’s cutest vegetable! And tasty — stir fried in butter, or simply thrown onto a salad.

    • They seem to affect different people in different ways, perhaps based on gut flora. I’m afraid I seem to be fairly susceptible to their effects: I tried them raw, boiled, baked, stir fried, deep fried – same effect every time 😦

      • I read somewhere that inulin breaks down over time (The Art of Fermentation, Sandor Katz) .. so that if you cook it thoroughly, then leave it to sit it could be fine. Also, that when it’s roasted it breaks down into fructose. Dandelion and burdock roots are both high sources apparently, and i roast them to great effect. I haven’t tried roasting Artichokes though.

      • Yep, same with me. And afraid to say yacon has exactly the same effect. Even tried boiling down to a delicious syrup but same response from myself and 2 friends as well.

  5. I assume the pear is being grown outside – here on Shetland I have two dwarf trees in my polytunnel that seem to be thriving well and have produced pears but they look a bit scabby though.

    • Yes, I meant outside. You can pretty much grow anything anywhere under cover and with heat if you put your mind to it. I got an email from someone about one in Kirriemuir succeeding against a south facing wall too. Congratulations on growing any sort of tree on Shetland!

  6. Regarding the Actinidias, apparently this is a problem all of them share. A) They are dioceous, i.e. there are male and female plants which will only bear flowers of one gender. B) Most native pollinators don’t seem to like them too much, so the pollination has to be done by hand in order to get a good yield.
    I still don’t have much experience with them, but still want to try, because Kiwis are amongst my most favored fruits.
    Oh, and seeing that this is my first comment, thanks for your work here. Your blog is really interesting and I’m pretty sure I will find my way back here once or twice 😉

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